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Today I surfed a great little river-mouth wave, that I had heard about (mostly the horror stories of the aggressive locals hurting outsiders), when i arrived, it reminded me of Florida in the competitiveness of the crowd, [...]
This is “SURFERS bar”, (a popular new surf dive, with Mr. Izawa The raddest surf movie maker in all of japan and his wonderful wife. I went here last night….enough said.
Everyone seems to smoke in Japan so I have personally taken it upon myself to teach some smoking awareness to todays youth, (think of [...]
I have been doodling off and on here, as I have minimal resources and space, but I’ve really enjoyed “sea treasure hunting” at the beach when there is no surf, there is amazing old pottery and little things that wash up in the black sand. It’s like I’m five years old again when I go [...]
As far as I believe Rob Kulisek is one of the best Photographers going, and thats not because hes one of my best friends,(frankly i have a lot of talented friends), Rob sees things that really blow my mind, in everyday scenery, and to avoid sounding cliche, I know he is going places, I know [...]
The Forecast today says there will be good weather, so hopefully ill be able to grab another surf, and possible my studio area will dry out so i can paint (i paint on our porch).
I’m feeling good today, well rested and clear headed, and eager to get moving.
Heres some pics from yesterdays knee high slop [...]
One can imagine that with rainy season in Japan one can get kindof glum, I mean i wake up to drizzle and go to sleep with it at night. Its like clockwork, i feel weird without it, now thats not to say that the daytime might not clear up and get sunny and hot, but [...]
I went to Tokyo by train yesterday with my trusty MORI (manager/surf guide/local hot springs skinny-dipper).
We arrived in the heart of the beast, I was Scarlett Johannsson, Mori was Bill Murray.
I saw enough Dont’s for Vice Magazine to do an encyclopedia, but I also was surprised to see some very very stylish stuff.
Ty Williams with [...]
Today Mori woke me up at the crack of dawn to surf a new little reef break,
when we pulled up I could see the wave breaking on what appeared to be dry reef.
After surfing what was a fun little waist high session, we decided to go down the beach to another break. While walking I [...]
