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late nights “EARLY MORI’s”

Today I surfed a spot with Ryu Nakamura, I dont know the name of it, but ive named it “turtles” (as there was a massive dead sea turtle on the beach). It smelled like throw-up, but the waves were kindof fun.
I celebrated the rad session with a Soba noodle dinner, this place really gets me pumped for the stuff. (this photo is me doing a “THRILLER” zombie pose in honor of the late MJ, we will miss those dance moves)
so awake
I have been surfing a lot lately, and perhaps i wouldnt be so much if it werent for Bill Mori’s impeccable skills of guilt tripping me out of bed (off bed i mean, as it is a mat on the floor), at 6 in the morning to surf knee high wind swell.
MORI: “ty, you wake yet?”
TY : (asleep breathing in mosquito coil fumes)
MORI: “Ty you want come surf or what, I’m going, maybe they no waves tomorrow!”
TY: “Mori Ill go but can we wait a little bit”
MORI: “Ty its the right tide right now, and we better going”
TY: “ok MORI, im coming, Ill meet you in the car in one minute”
see picture
asleep
hope everyone is enjoying their summers…

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